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Article du Charleston Daily Mail

Bill and Pat Garner aren't the kind of retirees who take cruises. They make cruises.

The Charleston couple guided their 36-foot trawler, "Hullabaloo," along the 8,000-mile Great Loop around the eastern half of the United States. 

In a little under nine months, including a two-month break, they traveled up the Atlantic coast, down inland waterways and into the Gulf of Mexico. Hullabaloo completed the Great Loop March 3.

"We've been boating for a long, long time, and this is a trip a lot of boaters aspire to," Bill said.

Pat said only a couple hundred boaters complete Great Loop each year.

"It's something you have as a goal. You've got to be willing to give a year of your life to it," she said.

They started their journey on June 9, 2010, in their homeport, the Chesapeake Bay. They cruised into the Delaware Bay and around Cape May into the Atlantic Ocean.

They traveled up the East Coast to the Hudson River in New York. From there, they traversed Lake Champlain, the St. Lawrence River Seaway in the Great Lakes, the Ottawa River, Lake Ontario, Georgian Bay in Lake Huron and the Straits of Mackinac.

Next up was Lake Michigan, then south to Chicago and the Illinois, Mississippi and Ohio rivers. They followed the Ohio into the Cumberland River for a side trip to Nashville, Tenn.

Pat's brother, Robert, who lives in Seattle, joined them there.

"(Nashville) was the only airport he could fly in from Seattle," Bill said.

The couple docked Hullabaloo in downtown Nashville, allowing them to enjoy the city's restaurants and music venues. They attended a benefit concert at the legendary Ryman Auditorium, seeing country legends like Dolly Parton.

After leaving Nashville, Pat and Bill cruised up the Tennessee River, then the Black Warrior River to Mobile, Ala., the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway to the Florida Panhandle, across the Gulf of Mexico to the Crystal River and Tarpon Springs. That completed the loop.

Not-so-smooth sailing.

Bill said the biggest challenge of the trip was Lake Michigan, which they crossed in early September.

"We had some rough days in Lake Michigan. It's a huge lake; it's like a little ocean.  You're not protected," he said.

Hullabaloo encountered 15- to 17-foot swells - even in a secure marina slip, tied down in all directions. Bill said the boat jerked back and forth so hard that it broke the thick nylon lines.

Another time, in the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway near Mobile, Ala., fog and rain was so dense that Bill's radar would read only 100 yards ahead.

"I was flying on instruments," he said, explaining he navigated with a GPS-equipped chart plotter.

There were manmade hazards, too. Bill crossed New York Harbor during an air show. He said every boater in New York and New Jersey was on the water, "and they were all looking up."

"In order to go up the Hudson (River), we have to somehow make our way through that. All I was doing during that time was watching to not collide with somebody," he said.

The mighty Mississippi also presented some challenges.

Said Pat, a retired teacher, "Let me tell you, if you think it's a nice lazy trip on a raft because you've read Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn, none of us want to do that any more. The Mississippi is a wild strip of water."

Since the river is mostly used for commercial boats, Pat said the Mississippi doesn't offer many services for recreational boaters.

"We were kind of on our own," she said.

She said boats on the Kanawha might push a dozen coal barges at a time. On the Mississippi, one boat might have 36 barges linked together.

"And you've got to stay out of their way," she said. "You call up the barge and you say 'Well, captain, where's the safest place to pass?' And he'll say 'Pass me on the one.' "

That's Mississippi River boat captain talk for "Pass me on the left."

Hullabaloo traversed 140 locks during its trip.

Bill said many of Canada's lock and dam systems are hand-operated and rather small, accommodating only six or eight boats at a time. He said many of the operators are college students on summer break.

"They sent them to charm school, because they come down and talk to you. They just really make you feel at home," he said.

Locks in the United States were much larger, some moving 50 million gallons.

"And sometimes we're the only boat in there," he said. "They'll literally move 50 million gallons of water for one boat."

Visitors welcome

Interestingly, Pat says she's not much of a water person. She grew up in northeastern Oklahoma.

"All that really matters to me are flowers and birds and land," she said. "I just come with my husband."

She joked that she goes "kicking and screaming" onto their long trips, but winds up enjoying herself. Friends and family make their travels more enjoyable, she said.

Pat said while Bill enjoys his friends, he's perfectly content boating alone. He likes to be on the water.

"I just nearly lose my mind if I don't have women around," she said. "For me, it's just necessary."

Their youngest daughter, Susannah Carpenter, visited Hullabaloo with her husband and children three times during their Great Loop trip. Their oldest daughter, Melissa Wylie, and her family hopped aboard at Lake Champlain. The Garners' friends, Helen Epps and Paul and Judy Smart, all of Charleston, dropped in, too.

Their daughter Jennifer - yes, that Jennifer Garner - didn't make it onto the boat. The couple flew out to Los Angeles around Thanksgiving to spent time with Jennifer, husband Ben Affleck and their two daughters.

Pat and Bill left Hullabaloo docked in Mississippi during the break.

An 'RV on the water'

Bill, a retired Dow Chemical engineer, grew up in Texas, two blocks from a bay. He discovered his love of sailing at a Boy Scout camp.

"My scoutmaster in Texas happened to be a sailor and had a little sailboat at the summer camp. One day, he asked if I wanted to go for a sail," Bill said. "I was hooked. I just loved it."

The next day, Bill took the sailboat out alone.

"I took it out not knowing beans about what I was doing," he said.

He figured it out, though, and has been sailing ever since.

The Garners used to sail exclusively until a couple of years ago, when they brought a cruising trawler. He said it's possible to complete the Great Loop in a sailboat, but you have to take down the mast to pass under some bridges.

"One thing they say about sailors, sailors almost always move to trawlers. They're more comfortable and convenient. We have all the amenities," Bill said. "It's like an RV on the water."

Their current boat is about 36 feet long with much better amenities: a stand-up shower, a master cabin with a walk-around bed in the master cabin, a "head" for each cabin (bathrooms to us landlubbers), a large galley with a propane stove and conventional refrigerator, a generator to run an air conditioner and even a built-in washer/dryer combo.

The Garners' last boat, a 38-foot Sabre sailboat named "Ubiquitous," didn't have laundry facilities, forcing Pat to seek a commercial laundry each time the boat docked.

Despite their new conveniences, Pat says living on a boat - even a well-equipped one - presents its challenges. She said a friend refers to her galley as a "one-ass" kitchen. She has a three-burner stove and an oven, but the latter is difficult to light.

"I don't use it. I store cereal in it," she said.

"It's really a trick to get the provisions," she said. "Grocery stores are not located near marinas."

She said marinas sometimes let boaters borrow a car and sometimes friends drive them.

Bill said it's often difficult to get haircuts on the water, too. In their travels, He's got his ears lowered by a poodle groomer in North Carolina and a lobster fisher's pregnant wife in Maine.

During this trip, Bill stopped for a haircut in a Canadian harbor town. The barbershop wasn't far away, but he wound up talking to a horse whisperer for quite some time.

"He turned out to be pretty famous," Bill said.

"It's just amazing how you make do," Pat said. "Boaters are just about the nicest people in the world. That's just the way."

Bill says he plans to take a break from boating for a while, though he's already considering his next excursion - a smaller loop through Canada, across Lake Eire and Lake Ontario into Quebec.

Last week, the Garners were still on the boat, hanging out in St. Petersburg, Fla.

Their next move is to head south to Fort Myers and east to Lake Okeechobee, where they'll catch the Intracoastal Waterway toward the Atlantic Ocean. Once there, they'll follow the coast past Georgia, the Carolinas and eventually back to their homeport in Chesapeake Bay.

They expect to complete their journey around May 15, but "it depends on how much time we spend along the way," Bill said.

"This is familiar territory."

Butter

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This is Laura (Jennifer Garner) screen worn, hero, emerald green satin 'ABS Evening' dress. (size 8) Includes wardrobe tag!  disponible pour 899.99 $

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Article US du 05/12/2005

Jennifer Garner: Last Weeks at Work

She Battled Bad Guys on Alias Up Until Her Eighth Month. Her Next Mission? Hosting Thanksgiving

1. In her last days on the job, Garner preferred saris to minis. "No more short skirts or high boots," says an Alias source. "She's just too big!" 

2. What to expect when you're expecting? In Garner's case, a Nov. 7 kidnap scene. "She's tired but tries not to show it," says a pal. 

3. To spy in swollen feet, Garner secretly wore "flats and slippers when she could get away with it," says the source. 

4. Instead of camouflaging her condition, Garner (on set with Greg Grunberg) continued to vamp it up until Nov. 18, when she embarked on her maternity leave. Now, "she needs to put up her feet," says the friend. Not until after Thanksgiving. Spending the holiday with husband Ben Affleck and family in L.A., she plans on playing her favorite role: chef.